4 hours north of Mexico City lies the beautiful fairytale-like town of San Miguel de Allende. The town is known for its iconic pastel pink cathedral the center of town, and charming cobblestone streets where authentic Mexican food stalls gather. The art scene here is worth mentioning as well. There are many galleries that feature local artists that you can visit before or after enjoying the buzzing gastronomic scene with rooftop bars overlooking the cathedral.

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I had a fantastic time in San Miguel de Allende due in large part to my stay at the Casa de Sierra Nevada, a Belmond hotel. I am a big fan of the Belmond brand in general, and was excited to experience their property in Mexico. There is another fantastic property in town, the Rosewood San Miguel de Allende which I had the pleasure of visiting. It’s different, but equally luxurious. In this post I’m going to share my impressions and experiences at the Casa de Sierra Nevada, and at the end compare the differences between the Rosewood and the Belmond.

Location

San Miguel de Allende is about a 4 hour car ride from Mexico City, though there are quicker ways to get there. The fastest way would be by plane, and luckily there are more nonstops from the US to closer airports available multiple times a week.

• Queretaro International Airport (QRO) is about a 1.5 hour drive away from San Miguel de Allende.
  • There are non-stop flights from Houston (IAH) and Dallas (DFW) multiple times a week.
• Guanajuato International Airport (BJX) is also about a 1.5 hour drive away from San Miguel de Allende.
  • There are non-stop flights from Houston (IAH), Dallas (DFW), Los Angeles (LAX), Chicago (ORD), and more US airports multiple times a week.

During my visit to San Miguel, I hired a car to drive me from Mexico City right to the doors of Casa de Sierra Nevada. The ride was comfortable, safe, and surprisingly scenic at times. The drive was only on the main highways, and the landscape I passed through was reminiscent of a rocky, red, and sandy Arizona. Upon pulling up to the hotel, I had bid adieu to my driver and was swiftly greeted by the Casa de Sierra Nevada team.

The location of this hotel is key because the main attraction of the town is the pink cathedral, also known as the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel. Surrounding the cathedral are several cobblestone streets with shops, galleries, museums, and restaurants, making the church a central hotspot for enjoying town. Casa de Sierra Nevada is a quiet 3 minute walk to the cathedral – the perfect location.

First Impressions

The Belmond Casa de Sierra Nevada is not your standard hotel, and the arrangement of the buildings is unconventional. Upon arrival to the hotel, I was briskly escorted to the main check in area which was an open courtyard with lush greenery and seating areas. As I sat down, I was provided with a welcome beverage, a citrusy tequila cocktail with pepper flakes and salt on the rim, and a lemongrass scented cool wet towel. To my delight, after a 4 hour drive, I was also presented with a stone bowl of fresh guacamole and tortilla chips which tasted like heaven.

I went through the check in process with a lovely associate and was invited on a quick tour of the property. I mentioned the layout of the hotel is unconventional. There is not just one building that houses the lobby, rooms, amenities, restaurants, etc. Instead, there are several historic buildings spread across the neighborhood – six buildings to be exact. This means crossing the street to get from one part of the hotel to the other (don’t worry, it’s not a busy street, and drivers are polite)!

Most of the buildings are dated back to the 17th and 18th centuries having been used for different purposes before becoming a hotel. This means that each room at the Casa de Sierra Nevada is unique, and there are several room options that offer different views. Walking through the neighborhood to the different hotel buildings made me feel completely immersed in this charming town. From the church bell ringing a block away to the smell of grilled meats from the taco stalls in the town square nearby – I was excited to explore what this hotel had to offer.

Rooms

Spread across several blocks near the iconic church lie 6 historic buildings accounting for 37 total rooms and suites. Important to note that each room is uniquely arranged, and that’s something to consider when deciding who to send to this property. There are no connecting rooms at this property due to its historic layout. You can, however, book out one of the 6 houses to make the rooms exclusive to a family. You can also request for rooms to be next to each other, though if young kids will be staying here the hotel may not be able to guarantee nearby placement.

Most of the 6 buildings are clustered together so they are only a 2 minute walk away from each other. Casa Parque, however, is about a 10 minute walk away, or a 4 minute courtesy card ride away. Casa Parque is a former private home that was later acquired to join the Belmond Casa de Sierra Nevada property, and its home to the Parque restaurant as well as the large event space and garden. This building is often rented out for weddings being close to the event space.

During my visit, I stayed in Casa Palma in Room 298 just in front of the pool. The room was technically a “Deluxe Room”, however it was in-between a Deluxe Room and a Deluxe Junior Suite as it had a copper soaking tub and small outside terrace, but did not have a fireplace or living area despite being more spacious than a standard room. The room had the quirks of an old residence having to take a few steps up to get to the bedroom, however the bathroom was the star. The bathroom was extremely spacious with tall ceilings and skylights brightening the lapis blue tiles accenting the walls.

Amenities

The Belmond Casa de Sierra Nevada is a 5 star hotel, and like any luxury hotel the amenities are plentiful and top notch. The hotel boasts two full service restaurants and two bars (also serving small bites) that range from upscale dining to casual eating. The roof top bar, Tunki Rooftop by Handshake, is one of the newest additions to the property located in Casa Palma. The bar offers a chic environment to enjoy modern cocktails with a view of the pink church while keeping the Mexican identity within its design.

Casa Palma, where my room was, is home to the large lap pool on property. Note that there is only one pool, and no kiddie pools or hot tubs, though there is a shallow area of the pool where kids could sit. There are lounge chairs, bistro tables, and towels readily available to relax by the pool. While I was told there was service at the pool area to have drinks and snacks, I found that the attendant only came by one time to drop off our drink order and then disappeared.

Additional amenities include a full service spa, a courtesy car, and a cooking school. The concierge goes above and beyond to secure any experiences you request, including babysitting, private tours, day excursions, and more. The concierge desk is located in a separate building, but they’re always welcoming and happy to send you off with multiple bottles of water and a map.

Spa

The Laja spa at the Casa de Sierra Nevada was one of the highlights of my stay. Set in Casa Principal, the same building as check-in, the spa takes over almost the entire second floor of the house. The spa sitting area is bright, spacious, and quiet, but you likely won’t sit there for long because the staff is prompt. There is also a cozy fitness area on the ground floor of the casa, and while there are no views to look at the modern machines make up for that downside.

There are only 3 treatment rooms at the spa which can be used for single or couple treatments, as well as a small salon for hair and nail treatments. The changing rooms and bathrooms are on the small side but fulfill their purpose. Unlike other spas I’ve been to, there were no saunas, steam rooms, or hammams here – the focus is primarily on massage treatments and body rituals.

At the Laja spa, I had a 50 minute deep tissue massage. I have to say, the massage was one of the better ones I’ve gotten at hotel spas. The therapist was responsive to my requests and the setting of the treatment room provided a relaxing and zen environment. In terms of anything special or unique to spice up the treatment, I would say it was a pretty standard deep tissue massage with lavender scented oil – missed opportunity to do something special and unique to Mexico!

Restaurants

There is no shortage of fantastic restaurants in San Miguel de Allende, and luckily two of those restaurants are at the Casa de Sierra Nevada. The hotel houses two full-service restaurants: Andanza and Restaurant del Parque, in addition to the Tunki Rooftop Bar and Blue Bar which serve small bites. Neither restaurant offers a view of the church, as they’re both on ground level, but they are located in lush inner courtyards making for a cozy atmosphere.

Andanza is the main restaurant offering breakfast, lunch, and dinner. The restaurant is located in Casa Principal. This is the same building where Blue Bar is conveniently located making for an easy one stop shop for pre-dinner drinks followed by a hearty dinner. I had a la carte breakfast at Andanza daily and the selection was spectacular and the portions plentiful. The dining area is split between rooms inside the former house, and the courtyard which has a retractable glass roof allowing for fresh air and sunshine. The dinner menu is comprised of modern fusion with Mexican inspired dishes thrown in – think New York Strip with a white wine butter or a Pork Belly with a fruity mole.

Restaurant del Parque offers lunch and dinner only, with breakfast served on the weekends. The menu is incredibly local but elevated, and if you haven’t gotten your fix of Mexican food yet Restaurant del Parque is a great choice. The restaurant is located in Casa Parque, which is the house that is about a 10 minute walk away – perfect for walking off the big meal you just ate! The dining area is situated within an open space courtyard with fruit trees, flowers, and cacti in a well curated garden. Mexican music plays quietly overhead as dinner is served, and the atmosphere is quiet and cozy.

Things to keep in mind

Belmond vs. Rosewood in SMA

You might be here because you’re comparing the Belmond and the Rosewood in San Miguel de Allende. I don’t blame you – I’ve done the same thing! The biggest difference between Casa de Sierra Nevada and Rosewood San Miguel de Allende is that the Belmond is spread across several buildings within a neighborhood, and the Rosewood San Miguel de Allende is on a self-contained property making for a more traditional hotel experience.

In comparison, the Rosewood is twice the size of the Belmond. There are 67 rooms as opposed to 37 rooms at the Belmond, and most of those rooms at the Rosewood are in one main building. The Rosewood San Miguel de Allende sits on 6 acres, and there is a lot of green space with room for tennis courts and multiple pools. The rooms at the Rosewood are more ‘cookie cutter’ compared to the Belmond (though still beautiful), and that makes sense because the Belmond took over old houses and turned them into hotel space. The Rosewood was built as a hotel, and has more traditional hotel amenities compared to the Belmond, like a kids club and a kiddie pool.

I also want to mention that the event space at the Rosewood is much larger compared to the Belmond making for a more popular choice for weddings and events. Distance-wise, the Rosewood is a few more minutes walking from the church and main square compared to the Belmond. If I were to briefly sum up the main differences, I would say that the Belmond offers a more boutique local luxury experience catered more for adults, where as the Rosewood caters more towards families and those looking for a more typical hotel experience.

Who would I send here?

• Adults traveling without young kids.
• Clients who don’t mind that the property is spread out.
• Clients who prefer a more authentic and immersive hotel experience rather than a cookie cutter hotel stay.
• Clients on the West Coast looking for a long weekend idea that’s fun with plenty of culture.
• Clients who are foodies and love visiting art galleries.
• Clients who are budget conscious but still want luxury (rooms start at $525 in low season)

All in all, San Miguel de Allende is a great option for those who want to visit somewhere fun and interesting but not travel too far from the US. The town seems to fly under the radar every year, but I think that’s an advantage because hotel rates stay competitive and you don’t have to grapple with overcrowding. Despite Mexico being in the media often for its safety reputation, I have to say I felt completely safe in San Miguel de Allende and the drive there from Mexico City. I saw families, children, old folks, LGBTQ couples, and more exploring the town as if it were anywhere else. I wouldn’t hesitate to visit this town, and I’d definitely recommend the Belmond Casa de Sierra Nevada for the right guests!